• Hard — from 15°C: designed for endurance racing; ideal for track days and abrasive asphalt or cold conditions.
   
• Medium — from 15°C to over 30°C: widest usable temperature spectrum.
   
• Soft — from 20°C and above: suited to mid-spring into summer.
   
• Supersoft — from 30°C: qualifier/sprint use prioritising grip over durability (on par with SC0).
   

• Largest size: 200/65/17
   
• K06 semi-slick Additional Data: same carcass and compound as the full slick, with a little more rubber; approximately ~300 g heavier with a slightly taller crown rotational circumference.
   

• Rear-tyre movement late in life:  for example : Racers in Europe report slickuse on RSV4 with Soft K00 show 4–6 days at fast track-day pace, with movement in the last ~10% requiring some riding-style adjustment, with no reported loss of grip or drive.
   

• Riders coming from Pirelli often back off the rear suspension to dial handling and allow the rear to hook up.  Adjust the rear shock accordingly.

FAQ: Guide on How to Read Motorcycle Slick Tyres (Track & Race Use)

What’s different about reading slicks vs DOT tyres?

ECE / DOT  tyres have tread that telegraphs issues.   Slicks don’t. Some slicks like our K00  have small “core/depth” holes; use those as wear indicators.  Many have none— Either way, you  must read surface texture, edge shape, and heat/pressure behaviour.

How do I know if pressure is too high on a slick?

Use the fingernail test on the hot tyre: if you can lift a thin flap and it opens like a little “valve” slit (rubber shearing at the surface), you’re likely 1.5–2 psi too high hot.  Solution: Bleed pressure immediately while the tyre is still hot—before it goes back on warmers.

What if the front looks fine but the rear is tearing?

Treat axles independently. It’s common for the front to be OK and the rear to show pressure- or setup-related shear. Adjust the rear hot pressure first; don’t copy the front.

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What are “braking lines,” and are they good or bad?

Light, even diagonal lines near the shoulders during corner entry show you’re loading the front correctly under brakes. They should be symmetrical side to side, smooth, and not bunch up (“balling up”) near the edge. If they bunch at the outer shoulder, revisit pressure or fork support.

I switched sizes (e.g., 180/60 instead of 180/55) and wear looks strange. Why?

Profile changes the contact patch shape. A 60-profile has a taller crown; if you’ve created a flat spot from previous running, the new profile can place load on a thinner, flatter band. Expect different wear until you reset pressures and pace to the new shape. Don’t chase the old look—tune to the new profile.

How do I tell if an ugly patch is pressure or suspension?

• Pressure issue: uniform surface shear you can lift with a nail; consistent around the lap.
   
• Suspension issue: a specific zone with rough, choppy texture that doesn’t match the rest of the circumference—often shock packing or topping causing the tyre to “jackhammer.” If rear looks immaculate elsewhere and one segment is rough, look at shock control (rebound/comp) before chasing pressure.
   

I’m not using the last 5–10 mm of the rear—problem?

Not necessarily. It can mean you’re not fully loading the tyre at max lean (throttle timing/line selection) or that geometry keeps you off the extreme edge. Prioritize drive quality and stability. Edge-to-edge isn’t a goal by itself.

What are those little rubber ‘mountain ranges’ after slow corners?

That’s molten rubber accumulation from slow, high-torque exits. Small, even “marbling” is normal. Big ridges or balls point to too much heat in a small patch: reduce hot pressure slightly or calm the shock so the contact patch stays planted.

How do warmers fit into pressure checks?

Set a baseline hot pressure straight off the warmer (after a full heat cycle per the tyre maker), then recheck immediately after your session. If the post-session hot pressure is higher than target, bleed to target while still hot. Do not set pressures cold and guess.

What’s a quick trackside decision tree?

1. Surface looks sheared, lifts with nail: drop 1–2 psi hot.
    
2. One sector is rough, rest is clean: add rebound or add a click of compression at the shock; keep pressure.
    
3. Braking lines bunch at outer shoulder: add a touch of front support (compression or spring preload) or reduce front hot pressure slightly.
    
4. Not reaching edge but exits are stable: leave it; focus on throttle timing and line.
    
5. New size/profile fitted: expect different wear; reconfirm hot targets.
    

How do I judge end-of-life on slicks without wear holes?

• Tread surface goes hard/glassy and stops “refreshing” after sessions.
   
• Repeated heat cycles with no grip recovery despite correct hot pressures.
   
• Shoulder rubber thins to a sharp feathered edge that can’t be cleaned up by pace or setup.
  If in doubt, retire the tyre for safety.
   

What hot pressures should I aim for?

Follow the tyre manufacturer’s current track-compound chart for your brand and carcass. Treat numbers as starting points. Use the surface read to fine-tune ±1–2 psi hot for your pace, track, and ambient.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Bleeding pressures when the tyre has cooled—data becomes meaningless.
   
• Copying a friend’s numbers without matching pace, bike, or compound.
   
• Chasing “edge to edge” wear as a goal.
   
• Ignoring a single rough sector that screams “suspension,” not “pressure.”
   

Starter checklist to run every session

• Off warmers, measure and note hot F/R pressures.
   
• After session (pit in, bike on stands), re-measure immediately.
   
• Fingernail test the rear.
   
• Scan for even, smooth braking lines at the front.
   
• Walk the full circumference for any one-zone roughness.
   
• Adjust: pressures first, then suspension if roughness is localized.
   

Safety note
Slicks are for closed-course use. Match compound to temperature and pace. If you’re unsure about a read, err conservative—small pressure changes, one at a time, with notes.

Here is an excellent video by Dave Moss on how to read tyres at the track!